I sow Dorstenia seeds only under grow lights, maintaining a daytime temperature around 30°C and a nighttime temperature no lower than 20°C. This temperature fluctuation, combined with high humidity and a fully sterilized substrate, allows the seeds to germinate well without the risk of fungal diseases or cold damage. A steady environment is crucial, as seedlings are sensitive to sudden changes. At lower temperatures, seedlings may succumb to fungal infections or fail to germinate altogether.

Choosing the Right Substrate:

For the substrate, I use the same mix as for other succulent species – fine pumice, perlite, and sifted coconut coir. After steaming the substrate to sterilize it, I add one tablespoon of Osmocote fertilizer per liter of substrate. This ensures a stable supply of nutrients for the growing seedlings.

Using Fresh Seeds:

To maximize germination success, I always use fresh seeds that are no older than one year, as succulent seeds tend to lose viability relatively quickly. The freshness of the seeds plays a significant role in successful germination, so it’s best not to store them for too long.

Seedling Care Post-Germination:

Once the seeds sprout, I gradually start to ventilate the container by slightly opening the lid. This helps prevent fungal growth and allows the seedlings to acclimate. To maintain high humidity, I mist the substrate twice daily, very lightly. The goal is to keep the environment humid but not so wet that seedlings are submerged in a soggy substrate; ideally, the top layer should dry slightly by midday, followed by light misting in the evening to restore humidity without waterlogging.

The lid is fully removed after 2-4 months, once the seedlings have developed enough to handle the transition. The first transplant typically occurs at around six months when a small caudex has formed, indicating healthy root and shoot development.

Preventing Rot and Fungal Diseases:

To prevent seedling rot, I occasionally treat the plants with fungicides and add vitamins to support their growth. Osmocote added to the soil during sowing ensures a steady nutrient supply throughout the initial growth stages. Regular treatment with fungicides also helps protect against mold and other diseases, which can be more prevalent in high-humidity environments.

What to Do If Seeds Don’t Germinate:

If the seeds don’t germinate, let the pot dry out completely. If algae or moss are present, treat the substrate with a 3-5% hydrogen peroxide solution, which will not harm the seeds, and then dry for 2-3 weeks. Rehydrate the substrate lightly and place it back under the grow lights for another attempt. I repeat this process 2-3 times if initial germination is unsuccessful.

Understanding Germination Issues:

In some cases, seeds may not germinate immediately due to factors such as freshness (seeds often require at least two months post-collection before they are ready to sprout) or oldness (too old seeds need additional stimulation), poor timing (sowing during dormancy time in the nature), insufficient initial moisture for activation, or an unstable temperature regime. If, after three attempts, the seeds still don’t germinate, it may be worthwhile to try a different location or use a modified substrate composition to support germination.